Or more specifically, the “brown gravy” at Rainbow Drive In.
About a year or so ago, The Food Network’s “Secret Life of…” show with Jim O’Connor featured a segment on Rainbow Drive In, putting a spotlight on their Loco Moco plate, which the owner said was one of their most popular items. So if this was broadcasted on national television, it’s gotta’ be great, right?
First, I’ll admit I don’t eat plate lunches too often (I need to keep my “girlish” figure ya’ know! lol), which is why I’m not a “regular” at places like this, but this past weekend I was looking for something filling for lunch, so we stopped by Rainbow Drive In where I decided to give this touted Loco Moco plate a try for the first time.
Rainbow Drive In Loco Moco, $5.75
Unfortunately, the brown gravy, which is the essence of this dish, was just such a deal-breaker. What is up with that chili flavoring in it? It tastes like they add chili powder or the chili gravy itself into the same pot as the brown gravy, giving it this odd combination that doesn’t match at all. If you look at its color, it even has a reddish hue to it, which sort of validates my assumption of what’s in it. Overall it was bland, lacking in depth and character and, simply put, just weird.
Under that were two over-easy eggs, which I would have prefered sunny side up (they didn’t ask), but that’s OK. At least these were done perfectly, with the yolk still runny, just how I like it.
Digging deeper, we get to the two hamburger patties, which were just OK. Nothing that would win any hamburger steak plate competition. It looked and tasted prefab. Not house-made. Also, it was cooked on a flat top griddle, not flame grilled, which the latter could have really helped improve the weirdness of that gravy on top.
Of course under all that was the standard two scoops of rice.
The second disappointment was the Mac Salad. The macaroni itself was way overcooked and soggy, making it taste and feel like I was eating a spoonful of straight mayonnaise. I took one bite and that was all I could stomach.
In fact, I could barely eat half the plate until I finally couldn’t take anymore of that weird gravy and tossed the rest.
The last really good Loco Moco I had was at Big City Diner at Ward. Now those guys know how to grill burgers and brew brown gravy! Still, I’ll never forget the Loco Moco at Country Kitchen (now closed) way out in Kaa’awa next to 7-11. Absolutely was da’ best’s’est!
While I won’t call it a pot of gold, I will say there was a really ono plate of Teriyaki Beef at the end of this Rainbow. So there is hope!
Rainbow Drive In Teriyaki Beef Plate, $5.75
My girlfriend ordered this plate, and fortunately had enough to share with me. The teri’ beef was flavorful, tender and moist, seared on the edges, and the teriyaki marinade was just right - not oversoaked, which is often the case with teriyaki beef. You could really taste the ginger, which I love in how that compliments the beef. It’s served over shredded Iceberg lettuce, which brings a nice balance to the dish. Unfortunately, this plate was also served with that horrid Mac salad, which would be more aptly named “Ball of Mayo”.
Getting back to that Loco Moco gravy, I don’t think that was a mistake either. It must be their standard brown gravy recipe, because my girlfriend ordered a veal cutlet plate with gravy from there before and it had that same weird chili flavor in it.
Perhaps the cook or owner thought so highly of their Chili, which is also a popular item at Rainbow’s, that they figured they’d include some of that flavor in the “brown” gravy. Dunno.
IMO, the brown gravy on a Loco Moco should be hearty, meaty and deep. Where you can taste the browned bits of beef used to flavor it. Ya’ know? Most of all, it certainly shouldn’t taste like chili or curry! Shoots, I’m happy with the packaged brown gravy mix in the supermarkets. That’s good stuff!
As far the Mac Salad, this could have just been a blunder for that day, which happens at almost ALL restaurants. This might just be that one time the cooks forgot about the macaroni boiling in the water and overcooked it. At least I HOPE that was the case.
As far as the establishment itself, it’s truly a Kapahulu avenue old timer landmark, with all the ambience of a local style plate lunch stand.
It’s also conveniently located within walking distance to Waikiki beach, making it a popular stop for hungry tourists, surfers and sunbathers.
They also have souvenirs that would make great gifts especially for Hawaii expats…
Rainbow’s is certainly doing something right, because the place is always packed. I know, as I drive past there almost daily. As mentioned earlier, I don’t eat plate lunches that often, and surely there are other items on Rainbow’s menu yet for me to try that I’d really like, such as I did with the Teriyaki Beef.
I normally don’t post about food I didn’t enjoy, but I had to get this off my chest. And of course I have to be honest; I’m not gonna’ say it’s good if it’s not. Yet, contrary to my experience, plenty of folks over YELP! rave about the Loco Moco.
If you’ve had a Loco Moco at Rainbow’s Drive In, tell us your thoughts on it. Or if you have a favorite dish you like from there, please leave a comment and let us know.
What others have said:
• Ono Kine Grindz - Rainbow Drive In
• Yelp! - Rainbow Drive In
8 comments
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January 26, 2008 at 4:34 am
Nate
Hey, glad to hear about the junk gravy. Been going to Rainbow for years and years. And I really mean years! But actually the only thing I ever get from there is the teri beef plate or a teri beef sandwich. Aside from maybe breakfast stuff. Thanks for the alert!
Going be home in maybe three weeks! Pig out time!
January 26, 2008 at 6:25 am
Gravy Train
>>”Shoots, I’m happy with the packaged brown gravy mix in the supermarkets. That’s good stuff!”<<
This is where you lose all your gravy critiquing credibility….
January 26, 2008 at 9:25 pm
Kat
I’ve only tried the teri sandwich there. Too bad about the gravy though.
January 28, 2008 at 1:19 am
lindy
Its been awhile since I’ve been to Rainbows, but years back we used to always go for the Teri Plate too (with a side order of chili)! It used to amaze me that their mac salad was not bad, since it only seemed to have macaroni, mayo, salt and lots of black pepper. I think they must salt the water when boiling the macaroni. But I do see that your photo has a LOT of mayo …I think times have changed or either the ‘cook for the day’. Once it awhile, I use to sway to the Corned Beef Hash and Egg….sorry not the Loco Moco. I enjoy gravy too, but wouldn’t appreciated that chili taste either!
Have you tried the Loco Moco at Jack’s in Aina Haina?? pretty good!
January 28, 2008 at 5:01 am
Brian
I think Rainbows has gone downhill the last few years. Did it change owners? The mac salad has to be the worst on Oahu.
January 28, 2008 at 8:50 am
rowena
Ok, despite the mixed reviews, I’m just eggstatic to be greeted with an idea that will be my uh (let’s see it’s not quite 10am)…BRUNCH! Yep, I agree. With a locomoco you either got it or you don’t, but no way can you mess up on the brown gravy…no way man! Now it’s off to the kitchen I go…..
February 15, 2008 at 10:28 am
Rocky
Grew up in Kaimuki eating tons of Rainbows plate lunches over the years (boneless chicken, teri beef, shoyu chicken etc.) but don’t recall once trying their loco moco. To be sure, I haven’t frequented them as much in recent years, but I do recall seeing the Food Network piece and it struck me as a bit curious (for the aforementioned reason). If it’s still on the menu, I’d recommend their boneless chicken–breaded chicken cutlets swimming in brown gravy (hopefully not the chili flavored kind used in the loco moco!)
For the true loco moco connoisseur, Cafe 100 in Hilo has an extensive menu including several creative variations on the basic loco moco. In fact, I think they lay claim to actually having invented the loco moco. Guess the Food Network folks were too lazy to make the trek out to Hilo to sample the real stuff.
May 15, 2008 at 12:15 am
Mr. Fergusson III
I’ve eaten at Rainbow’s for more than 20 years. Tried plenty of the basics there, boneless chicken, teri beef, chili, beef cutlet, teri burgers, hamburger steak, slush float, and the loco moco to name a few. I personally like the Rainbow’s gravy with the slight chili flavor in it. Usually when I eat there, the chili flavor is mild in the gravy, barely can tell. Just enough to make you say “What da…!?” In addition to the chili flavor, the gravy has good rich flavor and texture. I think they have one of the better gravys out there. The prefab hamburger patties are pretty bad, but they get the job done. You’re right that they are not game for any competition. From all the years I’ve been eating there, the mac salad is usually how you describe it. I don’t think it was a mistake of the day. Just put the gravy on top of the mac salad and it’s all good. Lindy got it right with the cornbeef hash and eggs over easy with gravy all over, then kethchup, shoyu, and worchestershire to top it off.