On a local message board I frequent, we recently had a debate on which type of cephalopod was most commonly used to make Squid Luau: Squid (a.k.a. Calamari) or Octopus (a.k.a. Tako)? In an effort to dispel the mystery, I went ahead and experimented making BOTH variations for a side-by-side comparison. Here’s the method and results!

The ingredients…

Top to bottom: Luau Leaves, Coconut Milk, Octopus (Madako Tako – fully cooked – imported from Japan), Squid (Argentine Calamari – imported from New Zealand)

and here’s the finished sample dishes…

Top to bottom: Octopus “Tako” Luau, Squid Luau, “Surf ‘N’ Turf” Squid/Octopus/Chicken Luau (notice all three? Wow!). Accompanied with a bowl of Poi (a must!).

Let me start by pointing out that Squid Luau isn’t going to rate high for visual presentation, but don’t let that discourage you from trying it. It’s such a unique and (IMO) really ONO, top-priority Hawaiian Luau dish! If you ever attend a luau and squid or chicken luau isn’t offered, then it really would be an incomplete spread; same for poi. These just have to be there!

In the top photo, the tako has a noticeably red color contrast, with distinguishable tentacle suction cups (texture!), while the squid (2nd BLURRY ackk! photo) looks like a simple white, square piece of “meat” (probably a piece from the head part).

The third photo is a combination of Octopus, Squid and Chicken. Wow!

In all three samples, the coconut milk (which I’m generous with because I like the flavor) quickly settled in the bowl. Not to fret, as a quick mix before taking a scoop incorporates it back in with the Luau leaves immediately.

So my sister Keanu and niece Kamaile (fresh off the plane from Missouri) were happy to be judges in da’ “Squid Luau Challenge”.

The verdict? Overall, all three dishes had a thumbs up of approval. But if they had to choose, the octopus was favored over squid. They both (and also myself) favored the “meatier” flavor and texture of the Octopus (Tako), which they came to their own conclusion over. They both said the squid had a slightly more “fishy” flavor, but they still liked it. This could be because the squid – unlike the Tako – wasn’t precooked, so the cooking process added that element from the juices in the pot.

Being MO “landlubbers”, they of course favored the chicken over our cephalopod mates, picking that out as their favorite in the third hybrid squid/octopus/chicken luau dish. The chicken certainly helped mask the mild “fishyness” the squid imparted. I must say, the combination of all three was MY favorite! After letting that one simmer for over an hour, the flavors and textures of the squid, tako and chicken was certainly unique and quite enjoyable. Especially with the poi.

As I expected, the dominant flavor here was the Luau leaves and coconut milk (which I happen to really like). That by itself could probably do quite well. The squid vs. octopus difference was a rather subtle and overall non-defining factor. The chicken, as expected, took it in another direction. The major factor between the squid and octopus is price, which you’ll see below.

Now if we only had Lomi Salmon, Poke, Lau Lau and Kalua Pig to go along with da’ Squid Luau and poi!

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Here’s how my “Squid” Luau was prepared (very easy!):

Removed stems from rinsed luau leaves, then boiled them in salted water for 1-1/2 hours. This breaks down the calcium oxalate crystals on the taro leaves, which can cause irritation. Drained well, rinsed, then squeezed out water.

(In separate pots) sauteed onions in butter, then added squid/octopus/chicken until cooked/infused. Added prepared (cooked-down) luau leaves to pot, coconut milk, Hawaiian salt and a little sugar (which balances flavor). Simmered for 1 hour together, stirring frequently to combine flavors. The 1 hour simmering time helps tenderize the squid and tako, reducing their “rubberiness”.

Price Breakdown (all ingredients bought at Don Quijote (Daiei):
1 lb. Squid – $2.29/lb.
1 lb. Octopus – $12.99/lb.
1 lb. Luau Leaves (fresh, uncooked) – $1.99/lb. (3 lbs. purchased total)
15 oz. can coconut milk – 99 cents (3 cans purchased total)
1 round onion – 79 cents/lb.
Butter & Hawaiian Salt – I stay get already

The results of a poll survey in that message board discussion are currently 12 votes for Octopus and 6 for Squid. Being that Octopus (tako) can be caught right off Hawaii’s shores (usually speared in shallow reef pukas), this is likely what the dish originated from. Squid (calimari) is a modern, imported item that is MUCH cheaper.

Regardless of which one is used, it will always be called SQUID LUAU.